North Haven Island
Published October 27, 2023
After saying goodbye to Camden, Maine, we made our way back to Rockland to park at the Rockland Ferry Services to take the ferry to North Haven Island.
We learned on this trip that it is not so easy to reserve a spot for your car on the ferry. You need a reservation at least a few weeks in advance, as well as a special departure code from the island itself. We elected to leave our car overnight in the lot (which was reasonably priced), and navigate the island on foot.
We had some time to spend before the ferry departed, so we walked back down Main Street to visit Ruckus Donuts.
Ruckus Donuts | Rockland, Maine
There was already a line of police officers waiting for boxes of donuts and coffees. A couple ahead of us ordered a large box of donuts to go. Early morning was the best time of day to have the most variety of donuts to choose from.
Ruckus Donuts was open, artsy, and fun. They had graphic cartoony doodles of artwork, bold swatches of red signs and chairs, and a large pastry case separating the donut display from the open-concept kitchen.
We already had breakfast sandwiches, otherwise I would’ve selected one of their specialty donuts to try, like the maple cream, lemon poppyseed, or blueberry explosion donuts.
The donuts ranged from $3.00-$5.00 each. We ended up ordering the classic strawberry donut with sprinkles.
The donut was soft and fresh, the icing was tasty and the sprinkles were picture perfect. We sat in the front window at a two-person table and drank our coffees. A couple with a toddler next to us shared a box of donuts. Several people ordered boxes of donuts in advance and stopped by to pick them up.
With bellies full of sweet treats, we joined the line to board the ferry and claimed a window seat. We chatted with a couple from New Jersey as the ferry chugged along toward North Haven Island.
The ferry ride was around 45 minutes. We passed lighthouses and small islands with seals and birds. The morning sky was overcast and cloaked the ferry in fog, with left little to sightsee. It wasn’t until we approached North Haven and the nearby Vinalhaven Island, that the skies opened to be sunny and blue.
We passed sailing boats as they swirled in circles, learning how to navigate the waters. Past them, personal boats bobbed in the water. Two-story houses peeked out through the trees and the white buildings on North Haven’s Main Street could be seen.
Things to Do on North Haven Island
North Haven Island is tiny. The Community Center near the ferry dock has a coffee shop. There is one post office (for the 400 residents who live on the island) and an American Legion. There is one casual eatery called “The Landing” which we stopped in for a snack and drinks. The North Haven Gift Shop sells sweatshirts and jewelry.
Most people rode bikes around the island. A few cars here and there shared the windy roads. Young kids carried their golf bags with them as they walked all the way to the North Haven Golf Club. The island was also good for hiking and walking, with several lookout points.
We stopped into our accommodations, The Nebo Lodge, before we went on to our afternoon activities.
Nebo Lodge | North Haven Island
Nebo Lodge is a gorgeous two-story inn and restaurant surrounded by flowers and gardens. I loved the large porch which had uncovered outdoor dining and covered outdoor seating, where guests could read and relax. In the afternoon, large buckets of dahlias and fresh flowers waited to be made into arrangements for dinner.
Ironically, we stayed in a room named “Butter” — which looked out onto the side gardens from the second story. The front staff showed us to the guest lounge on the first floor, which was a walk through the restaurant, so I was able to capture the beautiful dining rooms.
After leaving our bags, we intended to take our bike rentals to bike up to the North Haven Oyster Co. for our afternoon farm tour, but after seeing how windy and hilly it was near Main Street, we decided to take up the North Haven Oyster Co. team will a ride in their truck over to their property.
North Haven Oyster Co. | Farm Tour
The owner and founder of North Haven Oyster Co., Adam, welcomed us with a tour of his home and farm. His children and grandchildren support the business and have expanded the farm offerings. Adam showed us the free range animals like chickens, ducks, and turkeys, and where his son tends bee hives.
We settled in front of the oyster fridge near the barn, where locals walked up to purchase their own bags of fresh oysters. Adam told us the story of how he got started in the business before giving us our own tall rubber boots, where we followed him across the road and down to the water.
We joined Adam on his self-built platform, which he navigated around the water. We had a gorgeous day and we were the only two people for this farm tour, so it was really like a private 1-1 experience!
Adam showed us his oyster and clam equipment, the stages of their development before harvesting, and his 20+ years of knowledge when it comes to oyster farming. I even got to hold some of the giant clams he fished from the water, which have been there for many years.
I won’t tell you all of the amazing facts and information that I learned over the 2 hour tour. But one of my favorite parts of the tour was seeing the older oysters that Adam kept in the water. They were massive in size — as you can see from the photos. My favorite fact was that Adam said you could tell the oyster’s age by counting the rings on their shell, which shows each year/season they’ve been alive.
I highly recommend that you visit North Haven and book the North Haven Oyster Co farm tour. Luckily, we were able to have a late afternoon tour, since we were staying on the island. The ferry only runs two times during the day, so make sure you coordinate your tour time with the ferry schedule.
Nebo Lodge Restaurant
Adam dropped us back at Nebo Lodge with enough time for us to change to make our dinner reservation.
Interior Design
I loved Nebo Lodge’s design. The restaurant (and the inn itself), felt warm and quaint. We were seating in the first dining room, diagonal of the bar.
The dining room streamed natural light from the multiple windows. Cushioned booth seating with decorative pillows faced the tables with their colorful patterns and mint green metal chairs. One bartender prepped their station behind the curved wooden bar, the sound of ice clanking through their shaker as other guests made their way to the dining rooms at the back of the building.
Nebo Lodge Menu
We received two one-page menus. The first was the weekly dinner menu and the second was the vertical drink menu. The branding was simple and clean, with the light blue stamp of the Nebo Lodge logo in the corner.
Strawberry Lemonade and Ginger Lime Spritzer | $7.00 each
We started with the mocktails as we browsed the appetizers. They arrived in these adorable vintage glasses, which matched the mood of the table settings and dining room.
My boyfriend always picks the best flavored drinks. This dinner was no different, so we swapped. I preferred the ginger spritzer to the strawberry lemonade, though both were refreshing after spending the entire day outside in the sun (I was cooked).
Appetizers
We were given two portions of bread and olive oil to start with, which I loved. The candle on our table was lit. I thought the presentation with the fresh flowers and vintage plates was summery and romantic. We even had a small crystal plate of coarse salt to add to our dishes.
Dozen Oysters | $32.00
We didn’t spend all day on an oyster farm without ordering oysters again as an appetizer! I ate more oysters on this vacation than I have in my entire life.
The presentation of these oysters was my favorite of all of the restaurants we visited. They were on a bed of seaweed, which was fitting, in my opinion. Their iridescent shells glimmered on the dark background.
These oysters were larger than the others we had and had a larger amount of oyster liquor. I also appreciated that this was the only restaurant that loosened the oyster from its shell, so it was easier to eat.
Smoked Tuna Dip | $20.00
This appetizer caught our attention and was outside of our typical selections. The smoked tuna dip was Island caught bluefin, dill, and fennel spread with salt and pepper crackers.
The smoky flavor was a punch in the face upon the first bite. I wasn’t sure if I liked it. But after a few more crackers and adding some of the fresh greens to each slice, the flavor grew on me. It is, distinctly, a tuna texture and a smoked fish flavor. I didn’t get too much of the dill or fennel flavor, but the extra greens on the plate helped cut some of the smoky flavor down.
The crackers had a fantastic texture and seasoning, and were nice to eat on their own. The dip portion was more than enough for two people and would’ve been easily shared among a group.
Entrees
By now, the bar was filled with couples and friends. Some couples were dressed up in suit jackets and dresses, others were more casual in shorts and boat shoes. With the exception of the family in the back left corner, most people in the dining room were older than ~40.
Lamb Bolognese | $28.00
We were both famished at this point of the day, so we each selected one of the heavier entrees from the menu.
My boyfriend selected the lamb bolognese with handmade rigatoni and local ground lamb. This was a fair portion and arrived in a wide bowl.
I always hesitate to order pasta because I don’t find it to be filling, which is why I didn’t select this entree for myself. I tried some, and it was a tasty dish, but I think it would’ve been more filling if it had cubed lamb instead of ground lamb.
NY Strip Steak | $40.00
I knew I made a good choice when my plate arrived — it was gorgeous.
I ordered the NY strip steak with roasted zucchini and squash, eggplant, and crispy kale. The steak was cooked perfect and had buttery fat that melted in your mouth. The roasted veggies were juicy and the plate had flecks of colorful, edible flowers and greenery.
I would’ve preferred to have had potatoes instead of the kale, just to have a more filling side, but overall the dish was delicious.
Dessert
As the evening advanced, larger parties filed into the dining room, raising the volume in the space. The bartender bounced between the bar guests and filled trays to be carried to the dining room. A new couple sat to my left and ordered drinks and appetizers. The bar was so busy that folks stood in between the bar stools.
Our waitress disappeared for a bit, but we snagged another waitress and ordered dessert and coffee, which arrived quickly.
Sticky Toffee Pudding | $14.00
This dessert was divine. Literally, every flavor I love was packed into this dessert.
The cake was piping hot and soaked in butterscotch and caramel. The French vanilla ice cream cut the richness of the sauces and my coffee helped clear my palate between each bite. It was amazing; we devoured the whole portion.
My Recommendations
I give the Nebo Lodge Restaurant a 10/10 for the following:
Decor and Design
I love Nebo Lodge’s design, which they’ve translated over to their restaurant and dining room. The space was warm and quant for a small inn and blended pops of color and fresh flowers with the warm farmhouse wood and vintage elements. The thoughtful attention to detail with each table setting and plating tied in with the overall decor and design.
Service
Our waitress was friendly and efficient and the other waitresses who supported her during our meal were helpful. The waitresses seemed to be friends and you could tell that they had fun throughout the night as they served the busy dining rooms.
Food
With a focus on fresh greens, homemade, and local products, the Nebo Lodge Restaurant presented a beautiful, magazine-worthy meal and tasty dishes. I was excited to try their Maine oysters, which didn’t disappoint, and my steak was cooked to perfection. The desserts were as delicious as the rest of the meal, and I would easily go back to North Haven Island just to try more of their menu.
North Haven Island was one of my favorite highlights from our Maine travels. While we could only stay for a day before moving on to New Hampshire, I would definitely go back to do more hiking and exploring in the area, or to visit one of the neighboring islands for the day.
Exploring New Hampshire
Stay tuned for my next post, where we visit Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
In the meantime, feel free to explore my other travel reviews and restaurant recommendations here.
